Message: Hello Jim I just wanted to thank you for the rear disc brakes that you set up for me on 2 of my choppers and the front sturmey hub and rim assemblies. it feels so great to be able to stop. When your cruising 45 mph and I hit the brakes and it stops right now. There's no better feeling. Thanks again! - LELAND J.
PLEASE READ FOLLOWING INFORMATION SO YOU CAN LEARN WHAT OPTIONS ARE AVAILABLE FOR REAR BRAKES ON A MOTORIZED OCC style Stingray:
FIRST OF ALL...
* SUPER WIDE DISC/HUB - There is no safe/practical way to put a rear disc brake on a motorized OCC Stingray without replacing the [stock original] rear hub with a
Problem is: a SUPER WIDE DISC/FREEWHEEL HUB (170mm) is basically non-existent in the USA. That is why I always keep them in stock [from China].
* RIM & TIRE - So once you have my 170mm WIDE [DISC/HUB] next, you will need a rim.
Problem is: The only REAR RIMS available are either...
1.) Stock original rim - If you plan to use your "original" Stingray tire, then you will need to use an original Stingray rear rim (either your existing - shipped to me) or one I have in stock (single wall) Because, original Stingray LOGO tires - will not fit on available "aftermarket" (double wall) rims as they have a larger inside diameter.
2.) Aftermarket DOUBLE WALL rim - so... if we are using the "aftermarket" double wall rim - the tire will also have to be changed to a KENDA or similar aftermarket tire (20 x 4 1/4 = proper size).
After the HUB/RIM/TIRE have been determined. I will need to know what rim color is wanted. I use only Black or Silver stainless steel spokes to build the wheels. Rim color can be discussed.
* WHEEL BUILD - We professionally hand build ALL wheels to highest quality standards - over a decade of experience and 1,500+ "custom" wheels.
* REAR DRIVE SPROCKET & DISC BRAKE [COMBO] - This is the IMPORTANT PART. After the wheel is built, it must be set up in a way to squeeze the additional equipment into the stingray frame. This set-up requires a [NO WELD] Disc Caliper Mounting Bracket, a Disc Brake Caliper & Rotor and the correct size Rear Drive Sprocket, thinner axle lock nuts, "spacers" and Long Stainless mounting bolts. Your wheel bearings will be heavily packed with Hi-Temp grease, bearing tension set and a NEW freewheel is attached. Typically, an automobile "scissor jack" or similar can be used to gently spread your rear Frame "wish bone" slightly [maybe a 1/2 inch] to make it possible to slide all the new equipment into place. SEE TOP ROW OF PHOTOS [ABOVE]
"SPLITTER" / BRAKE CABLES - If you are using the chain configuration I use: pulley mounted into frame in conjunction with my CNC Motor Mount => [SEE TOP TWO RIGHT SIDE PHOTOS ABOVE] ... You may want one of my "splitter" cables which will allow you to engage [BOTH] the stock rear caliper brake and the NEW disc brake at the SAME TIME! OR WITH THE NEW DISC CALIPER SET-UP YOU CAN RUN [DISC BRAKE ONLY] and remove stock calipers altogether.
JACKSHAFT OPTION - [BOTTOM TWO PHOTOS - ABOVE] Affords all kinds of opportunities by sending motor DRIVE POWER - over to the right side. This is ideal for Schwinn Stingray Spoiler where you want to KEEP YOUR EXISTING stock rear disc brake intact. ...and for other reasons - 3 speed transmission, etc.
This is a special order product so I will contact you - when I receive your order to fine tune EXACTLY WHAT YOU NEED as far as Rim and Spoke color - sprocket size etc. ALL WHEELS HAND BUILT AND SPROCKET AND DISC BRAKES ARE PROFESSIONALLY PRE-FIT HERE PRIOR TO SHIPPING TO YOU.
*** CLICK ON DROP DOWN BOX TO PICK OPTION YOU WANT.
NOTICE: SEE PHOTO [LEFT] for BEST CHAIN CONFIGURATION if you want to just use (stock rear brake caliper) My many years of experience have shown me the best CHAIN CONFIGURATION for a motorized OCC style Stingray.
Using my CNC mount - I start by installing the motor all the way back against the seat mast. Then, I install the chain tensioner [pulley only] in the position shown here. Trim your drive chain as short as possible and attach the master link.... Then, rather than a "tensioner" the motor can be slid forward slightly as chain stretches to take up MOTOR CHAIN SLACK. This method allows clearance for chain to flow thru the tight spaces on an OCC.
In some cases [stock caliper (LEFT ARM)] has to be heated and bent 'up" slightly but that is not always necessary. Feel free to contact me to discuss. Many of my customer builds have the stock rear brake and a front drum hub / wheel brake = excellent braking system for motorized stingray.
QUESTIONS? FILL IN FORM I WILL CONTACT YOU!